If you want a tank like mine above (220g #1 - pic taken 2009), below is a list of items & equipment needed to setup my AquaCorals Reef System.  It does not include the PVC pipe & parts needed to plumb.  That is addressed under my articles "How To Plumb".  Again, if you do what I do, using the same equipment & supplies I do, you will duplicate my success!!
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Tank & Stand - I highly recommend a 75g MIN!  220g+ BEST!!  See my article "Tank Selection" for details!

Overflow Box Sets: I use the following:

75g to 90g - Use 2 PF 800
110g to 125g - Use 3 PF 800
150g to 220g - Use 3 PF 1000
265g to 300g - Use 4 PF 1000
NOTE on the PF 1000 overflow box sets - Do NOT use the 2 U tubes included.  Purchase a single 1.5" U tube & use only 1 per overflow box set.  Why?  Because the U tubes are not anchored but rather just sit on the top of the box set & one U tube is always a tad deeper into the skimmer box than the other which means it take in more water than the other & the slower U tube can eventually collect air & potentially break it's siphon over time.  Trust me, use a single 1.5" U tube which I use here & works marvelously.
  
Sump Water Pump (Submersed or in-line): MUST provide a MIN 10x per hr turnover - MINIMUM.  Example:  75 gal tank x 10 = 750 GPH at the top tank rim!  I'd use a 950 GPH & valve the flow back (or slow it if a DC pump) if needed.

Skimmer:  Choose one that more than satisfies your min system gallons (include sump) example:  75g + 25g sump = 100 gal system.  Choose a 150 Gal rated or higher.  You CANNOT over skim - ever!

Titanium Heaters:  Size - Min 3 watts per gallon (be sure to include approx sump gallons & round up the total gallons) - more watts is better as the heaters don't have to run as long.  We use at least 2 heaters for redundancy in case one fails.
Why not glass heaters?  Thermometers are the most prone to failure of ALL the power equipment we use & the glass ones are more prone to glass breakage as well as the thermostats sticking on the ON position = cooking a tank!  Titanium element heaters are much stronger & less prone to failure.  Finnex makes a good line of durable heaters.

Thermometer:  Use a glass floating thermometer alone or to back up & dial in digital equipment.  NEVER EVER rely on digital displays to be accurate.  An inexpensive glass floating thermometer is your safest & most accurate measure of this critical tank parameter. 

Powerheads:  (2) are always used on the tank ends blowing to the front glass - (1) for Left end) & (1) for Right end).  The others are for the tank back glass center to front glass:

3 Ft Tanks use (3) total MJ Pro 600 - (1) for back glass
4 Ft Tanks use (4) total MJ Pro 900 - (2) used for back center to front
6 Ft Tanks (up to 18 inches front to back wide) use (2) MJ Pro 1200 (L & R ends) & (2) use MJ Pro 900 for back center to front
6 Ft Tanks (over 18 inches front to back wide) use (4) MJ Pro 1200 - (2) used for back center to front

Initial powerhead Placements:

Wavemaker:  Either a stand alone which our powerheads would be plugged into or DC self waving powerheads the need here is to create random water flow inside tank to simulate the ebb & flow of ocean current.  We DO NOT want to create a circular flow like a whirlpool in our tank!  We want the flow from each powerhead to either bounce off the flow of another powerhead &/or the front glass back onto the corals.  It's the corals that need flow coming into them to not only stimulate the polyps to open but to also remove debris from them & bring natural foods to them.  In my system, the powerheads DO NOT factor into the system turnover rate.  Only the main sump pump does.

RO (Reverse Osmosis) Water Filter:  MUST have - strips impurities/contaminants out of our water source.
RO Float Valve: To expand RO Automation, i.e. auto top-off/evaporation replacement in the sump & to refill freshwater & saltwater mix containers for full automation.

Salt:  IO Reef Crystals - Reef Salt is what II use at AquaCorals

Refractometer: Measures the amount of salt in your water  I do NOT recommend Hydrometers as they rarely, if EVER give a correct reading!  This is too important to risk!  Get a Refractometer & protect your livestock investment!

Reef Lighting:  LED, T5, Metal Halide, VHO Flo - All good & very critical to keeping corals!

Ground Probe:  Removes stray electrical current protecting you & your livestock!

Sump Tote:  Largest to fit under stand!

Live Rock:  1 Lb per gallon of tank MINIMUM.  Do NOT go as much as 2 Lbs per gallon or you'll end up with water displacement = more rock than water in your tank!

Sand:  Bottom:  Carib Sea Oolite Ocean Direct Live (live/wet) Reef Sand 40 Lb Bags -  3 - 4 inches

 Sand:  TOP:  Carib Sea AragAlive (live/wet) – 1 - 2"

How Much Sand To Use:

Tanks with a floor dimension of:

48" x 18":
Bottom Sand = 4 Bags of 40 Lb Oolite Ocean Direct Live Reef Sand
Top Sand = 3 20Lb bags of AragAlive "Special Grade"

48" x 24":
Bottom Sand = 5 Bags of 40 Lb Oolite Ocean Direct Live Reef Sand
Top Sand = 4 20Lb bags of AragAlive "Special Grade"

72" x 18":
Bottom Sand = 6 Bags of 40 Lb Oolite Ocean Direct Live Reef Sand
Top Sand = 5 20Lb bags of AragAlive "Special Grade"

72" x 24":
Bottom Sand = 7 Bags of 40 Lb Oolite Ocean Direct Live Reef Sand
Top Sand = 6 20Lb bags of AragAlive "Special Grade"

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You will also need:

Tank Glass Scraper

Reef Carbon & Polyfilters - to help remove organic & chemical contaminants

Mesh Bag - to hold your carbon media

Additional powerhead to stir your new saltwater container - I recommend the MJ600 or MJ900

Hose to perform water changes - - I recommend the Python Hose but do not use any attachments - just the hose only