Filtration = DSB/LR/O (Deep Sand Bed / Live Rock / Overflow system):

Deep Sand Bed & Live Rock... This IS your "filter".  (No mechanical/power filters needed!)
Any "filter" is a place where good bacteria lives that breaks down all the wastes.  In mechanical/power driven filters the bacteria is provided "housing' on filter pads, "bio wheels", "bio balls" & other "medias".  In a natural system (which simulates what Mother Nature does in our oceans) the vast majority of bacteria resides in the live rock & sand.
I cannot stress enough how important this section is!  To be successful with my "reef system recipe" you absolutely CANNOT skimp on the amount of live rock & depth of sand bed installed. These 2 areas do 99% of your system's filtration.  Again, filtration is the breakdown of all wastes produced in the total system.  Uneaten foods, fish excrement etc.  It is critically important to have enough of both areas to harbor enough good bacteria to fully breakdown all wastes, producing a complete Nitrogen Cycle.  There are 3 basic "good" bacteria, 2 of which need oxygen to live & the 3rd likes low to no oxygen areas.  The inner depths of your rock & lower levels of your sand will provide this anoxic area for this last, but VERY necessary bacteria...which breaks down NitrAtes.

1.  Deep Sand Bed 4 – 6+ inches deep.  Click here for diagram

I recommend using a combination of 2 different grain sized substrates:  First use 3 - 4 inches of “Carib Sea “Aragamax” a fine sand used on the bottom.  Top the Aragamax with 1 - 2 inches "Carib Sea "Sea Flor”.   The Sea Flor is a little heavier, larger grained sand which will hold down the lighter Aragamax but it still fine enough for all sand loving critters to utilize including Gobies, Cucumbers etc.  Because the Aragamax fine sand compacts more tightly it will provide the bulk of low/no oxygen areas needed.

You can “seed” your sand with live sand if you wish to “jump start” your sand bed but this is not necessary as bacteria and life forms already present in the live rock will migrate to & seed your sand.

2. Live Rock – approx. 1+ lb rock for every tank gallon.

   Note:  All rock types (Figi, Marshall Island, Caribbean Shelf etc.) will provide homes to good bacteria but some rock types are better suited for building the base reef structure...to ensure it's stable & not always falling!  I recommend using Figi (best for shape & price) to build the basic reef structure then feel free to add different rock types for aesthetics, shelving etc.

   1. Used in conjunction with the deep sand bed, live rock is the “other half” of Mother Nature’s “natural” biological filtration.  Beneficial bacteria lives within the rock just like it does on the filter cartridges of your mechanical (let’s say back hanging) power filters, thus eliminating the need for such power filters.
   2. Make sure to build your rock structure with open spaces so water can flow from the back wall to the front etc.  This will also create great hiding & swim through places for your fish!

              Types of Live Rock:

1.   Uncured:  This is rock that has not been “cleaned”.  When rock is collected from the ocean, some of the living organisms on the rock die during transport.  The decomposition process adds excess nutrients to your tank.  This is totally acceptable for new tank setups as it will “cycle” your tank.  Uncured rock is NOT recommended for established/already harboring livestock tanks.

2.   Cured:  This is "clean" rock.  Any dead organisms are cleaned off the rock & should not add nutrients when placed in your tank.  Recommended for established tanks.

Water Movement & Water Conditioning - The "Overflow" System:

An overflow system consists of 3 main parts:
     1.  Overflow Box Set(s) - gravity feeds water out of the tank & dumps it down to your sump.
     2.  Sump - any container (I recommend a tote) which collects the water dumped from the overflow - normally placed under your tank in the stand but can also be placed more remote like in a basement under the tank or in a room/closet next to the tank.
     3.  Main/Sump Pump & "Return" Plumbing - a pump that pushes the water out of the sump & "returns" it to the tank.  I use & recommend Mag Drive pumps submersed in the sump water.  Vinyl tubing & PVC pipe (or just PVC pipe) connects to the pump and goes up to & over the top rim & into your tank.  This pump line is called the "return" as it's returning the water back to your tank.
PVC Return Parts List (purchase at Home Depot or local hardware/plumbing store): 3 Elbows - 1 Male threaded Adaptor - 2 Female threaded Adaptors (1 for pump). Straight PVC pipe – Slip Ball Valve - Quick Disconnect/(opt) – Vinyl hose/(opt).  Plumb from pump with all PVC or some vinyl hose.  PVC at least from tank bottom to top tank rim & over to give rigidity over the tank rim..

How The Overflow System Works:

Overflows – An “overflow box” set sits on the back rim of your tank.  It consists of 3 parts:  1.  a Skimmer box (smaller box that has slotted teeth) which hangs on the inside your tank.  This skimmer box is connected to a larger 2.  Back box by means of nylon wing nuts.  Most overflow skimmer boxes can be raised or lowered on the main box & it's height will determine the height (water level) in your tank.  If using more than one overflow box set, all should sit at exactly the same height.  If one is lower in your tank the lower one will take in water first & run faster (out of balance with the other overflows).  When your main sump pump is running - pushing water into your tank, the water in your tank flows through these "teeth" on the skimmer box, dumps down into the skimmer box & is "siphoned out" by means of gravity with the use of a “U” tube which dumps the water to the Back box where the water then flows down through a ribbed hose or PVC pipe to your sump.  Understand that these overflow sets only run as fast as the main sump pump is pushing water into the tank.
A good/quiet operating level is for the tank water to drop inside the skimmer box about 1-2 inches below the bottom of the skimmer box "teeth/slots".  If your overflow is filling too high inside the skimmer box = running too fast & is noisy just close the pump valve a tiny bit (slowing the flow of water into the tank) & wait a minute to see how much of an adjustment this makes on your overflow(s).

Each overflow box set has a different flow rate/GPH (Gallons Per Hour) meaning the maximum number of gallons of water that can flow through it in one hour.  Know what yours is rated for!  Use as many overflow box sets that will put all your tank gallons through your sump & back to the tank a minimum of 10 times per hour.  This is called a "Turnover Rate".

Example:  75 gallon tank x 10 = 750 gallons per hour.

The Sump  - The primary function of a sump is to collect water from the main tank & condition it by heating, skimming & oxygenating it from the "dumping action".  A sump can be made by using another fish tank, tote or specifically purchased sump.  Warning! If you choose to purchase a commercial sump/overflow be sure it can handle the amount of turnover rate your tank size needs.  Many manufacturers state their sumps are suitable for a certain size tank but most often they are NOT as they are not designed to handle the minimum 10x per hour turnover rate we need!  This includes most so-called "Reef Ready" predrilled tanks!
I recommend using a good quality tote (try to find a sturdy clear tote with a flat bottom (no wheels!) Most Walmart & Target stores have them).  A pump (in-line or submersible) pumps the water back up into your tank.  The dumping of water from the overflow into the sump naturally creates aeration, basically super saturating the water with oxygen.  This type of system can handle a power outage many hours longer than mechanically filtered tanks.  The sump houses your heater & skimmer, decreasing the amount of equipment in your main tank.  Marine tanks which do not utilize an overflow system will have a “film” on the tank’s water surface (which not only looks nasty but also blocks light from entering the tank & deters nitrogen gas/air exchange).  This overflow system skims the water’s surface, removing any film material. 

Sump Bubble Diffuser - We do not want bubbles in a reef tank as they can kill corals as well as make the water look cloudy. The "dumping" action of the water falling down into the sump generates lots of bubbles which are sucked up by by our main pump & blown into our tanks.   A simple "Bubble Diffuser" will eliminate bubbles before reaching your pump.  It can be made of any clean plastic container (remove any metal parts like pail handles etc.) that will fit in your sump & should be tall enough to stand out of the water at least a couple inches.  Cut a slot in the side at the bottom for the water to escape.  Approximately 2 inches tall by 6 inches wide leaving about a one inch lip on the bottom (Diagram A).  The 1 inch bottom lip will help keep rock pieces from sliding out the hole.  Face the hole away from the pump & place a couple pieces of live rock to keep the diffuser seated on the sump floor (Diagram B).

This diffuser container is also a wonderful place to put media like reef carbon, phosphate remover & other media that needs water flowing through it.

Main Pump - Primary Water Movement:
Again, I recommend using the Mag Drive pumps submersed in the water in your sump.  Though these pumps can also be used in an in-line/dry application, submersing the pump allows the pump to run cooler, quieter and uses less space in the tank stand etc.  They do not generate enough heat to be of concern & will not impact the tank temperature in the summer months.  Your pump MUST be strong enough to turn over your main tank at least 10 times per hour.  Example:  If your tank is a 75 gallon, your pump MUST be able to push 750 GPH (gallons per hour) at a 4 Ft height.  In this example I use a Mag Drive 9.5.  Though rated for 950 GPH, at a 4 Ft height it's now only pushing 800 GPH....just over the minimum needed.  I highly recommend the Mag Drive line of pumps because they tend to push harder than they're rated for, are the most durable, versatile & problem free pump I've ever used.  See the "pump chart" for specifications here:  Mag Drive Pump Chart

Click below for more Overflow & Sump diagrams:
Overflow (side) Diagram  - Overflow/Sump (front) Diagram  Return Plumbing Diagram

Overflow Box Set Setup Instructions

Power Heads - Internal Tank Water Movement: – Creates necessary internal tank water movement
– 2 units for tanks up to 30g, 3 units for larger tanks.  Recommended starting placement - one powerhead mounted on end of tank side glass shooting down behind your rock.  The other 2 mounted on tank side glass mid height pointing front & center.  I highly recommend using MaxiJets powerheads!
NOTE:  Powerheads do NOT factor into the system's "turnover rate".

Optional:  Wavemaker – Highly recommended.  This is an electronic unit which automatically turns on & off your power heads creating random “wave action” similar to that in the oceans.  Just plug your power heads into the unit (up to 4) & select desired wave action strength (4 settings to choose from) & it does all the work!  I recommend the Red Sea Wavemaker Pro which also features a fish feeding mode.  One touch of a button will shut off all connected powerheads & quiet your tank so the food doesn't get blown around before your fish get to eat it!  The wavemaker will automatically turn back on in 20 minutes.  Can also power your main pump.  Awesome unit!

Water Conditioning:

Protein Skimmer – Removes unwanted dissolved organics from your water.  Nuisance algae feeds on excess nutrients in the water.  A skimmer removes waste particles not seen by the naked eye thus creating a much higher water quality.  A Venturi type skimmer is highly recommended over air stone driven.
I recommend the “Pro Clear” line of skimmers. Choose the model that is rated for your tank gallons.  You can choose a larger model if there's a chance down the road you may jump to a larger tank.  :0)

How a Skimmer Works – Air is injected into the skimmer’s water column creating tiny bubbles.  The bubbles naturally have a “film” surrounding them which picks up dirt as they rise through the water column in their travel to the top of the skimmer’s collection cup where they collect as “foam”.  There the bubbles break & release their “dirt cargo” (known in the hobby as skimmate) into the collection cup, thus efficiently removing wastes.  If left in the water these waste products would be food (fertilizer) for unwanted hair algae etc.!  You see this occurring naturally on our ocean beaches where the waves, full of air bubbles, break on the shores leaving strips of foam on the beach, full of unwanted nutrients & pollutants!

RO TFC Water Filter (for well or city water) –  This is a water purifier which will remove up to 99% of unwanted pollutants in your water whether from well or city delivered.  The unit will dramatically reduce the chances for unwanted algae growth!  Most water sources introduce unwanted components that feed algae like Phosphates, Silicates & other undesirables like metals etc.  People who filter their water using an RO see dramatic benefits.  Don't be too concerned about their ratings for gallons per day (GPD) as most hobbyists will never use more than 10 GPD to replace evaporation and to make change water for the week.
Special Note: For those who might be concerned that an RO unit produces too much waste water it is important to remember that an RO will only create waste water when the RO is called upon/turned on to make pure water.  RO units do NOT run constantly!  Most applications will use an amount of water in one week the equivalent of a person taking a shower!  I recommend the Kent 35 GPD HI-S TFC units.

How An RO Works:
A Kent RO comes with a garden hose fitting which attaches to any cold water faucet/spicket etc.  As the picture shows, the water passes through the first 2 prefilter stages then into the powerhouse membrane where only the purest water molecules make it through.  What doesn't make it through to become your pure water is dumped out through a second orange 1/4 RO line to any available waste, floor drain, sink drain, some even use it to fill their washing machines!

How To Operate:
 - To Make Pure RO Water:  Turn cold water source On.
 - To Stop Making Water:  Turn cold water source Off.
It's that easy.

Automate Your RO
Replace evaporation & fill your saltwater mix container automatically!

Lighting: – 3 – 8 watts per gallon (the more the better!)  For best aesthetics & best coral growth you should use an equal mix of 10,000K (white) & 460 Actinic (blue) bulbs.

Example:  30 gallon tank with 2 dual strip lights  - a total of 4/ 20 watt regular flos = a total of 80 watts  divided by 30 gallons = 2.67 watts per gallon.  Bare minimum for tanks with corals!

Good - Florescent Lighting:  You will need a minimum of 4 bulbs, 2 - 10,000K (white) & 2 - actinic (blue).  Fine for soft coral species & some LPS.

Better - PC’s (power compact) florescent – These are high power (high wattage) florescent bulbs which usually offer a more affordable high light solution.  Many systems now come with tiny moon light bulbs which come on after the main lights go off for night time viewing & simulates a natural reef lit by moon light.  This light allows you to watch night time activities of critters who only come out at night.  Other lighting options can be retro fitted with moon lights as well.

Very Good! -  VHO (very high output) Florescent.  Good for all types of corals & clams.

Best! - Metal Halide – Best Lighting!  With this lighting system you can grow just about anything you want!  Use a minimum of 175 watt, 10,000K (white) & 2 - VHO actinic (blue) for best results!

Dusk to Dawn Lighting:  Most light systems come with independent power cords, one for the 10,000K bulbs & the other for the actinics bulbs.  We recommend using timers to simulate sunrise & sunset.  A basic lighting configuration would be 12 - 14 hours per day. The first timer should power the actinics and the second timer should power the daylight.  The daylights would come on 1 - 2 hours after the actinics & the opposite for the shut off.  The daylights would power off 1 - 2 hours before the actinics.  Systems with Moon lights would have it's own timer & would turn on after both main lights are off.  The moon lights would go off just before the main lights come on again.

Hanging/Suspending Your Light Over The Tank:  Click Here for details

Horizontal Example

Vertical Example